Renowned celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff exclusively shares the vision behind her eye-catching look created for Priyanka Chopra during this year's Oscars, along with tips and tricks to emphasizing your eyes without going overboard.
What was the inspiration behind the makeup look created for Priyanka Chopra at this year's Oscars?
PATI DUBROFF: Priyanka wore a dramatic black gown by Elie Saab with beadwork, which I decided to mimic on the eyes. Her gorgeous Chopard earrings also played a factor. Typically, we work with Priyanka’s natural almond-shaped eyelid, but this time we wanted an elongated winged eye for a more dramatic look.
What are some quick beauty tricks you use when applying makeup to the eyes?
PD: When I’m doing a dramatic eye, even one that has a graphic feel, I always keep the edges softly diffused. I find that very hard edges can be too severe. I also always like to keep some "alive" quality, like a pop of sheen (it can be a clear glow or even glitter) to keep the lid open and light brought to eye area.
Do you have a go-to product that you never skip?
PD: To make eyeshadow last, I apply Jill Stuart's Beauty Iconic Look Eyeshadow (C204) along the crease to create depth with a warm skin-like tone and allow for the products to stick. I also layered some powder shadows lightly for more staying power.
When creating a look that focuses on the eyes, are there certain rules one should follow depending on the person's eye color?
PD: I think that dark colored eyes can wear virtually any shade; skin tone plays a big part too. Black and grey tones can be tricky and for that reason I used Jill Stuart's Iconic look Eyeshadows (C204) on Priyanka, a warm bronzey tone along the crease so it would help harmonize the eyes with her skin tone. I love bright shadows on dark eyes; I also especially love burgundy tones. The key for me is making sure it is all harmonious with clothing as well!
What are some of the biggest mistakes people make when applying makeup to the face?
PD: Most people don't know when to use gloss over cream or shimmer and the effect of a well placed shadow. I definitely use a lot of gloss and cream shadows on everyone, and especially when their eyes are a darker shade. It helps them to really pop and avoids the eye area looking too dull. Too many flat shadows definitely make for a dull eye. Although matte/flat shadows and creams are crucial for giving eye dimension!
What are your favorite beauty products?
PD: Jill Stuart Twinkle Glow Multi-Stick is perfect for adding a dash of glow to lids or the tops of cheekbones as well as a great sheer sparkling lip tone. I also love Jill Stuart Lip Blossom #44, which helps create the perfect natural lip color and texture. Plus, it feels good to wear! Because my skin craves it! I have to suggest Augustinus Bader as well. Chanel's Volume Revolution Mascara builds incredible lashes and doesn't flake. It's truly my number one go-to beauty product.